How-to Build Your Own Framed Pegboard

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There has been a pegboard in my room all the time, a very small one with just a few hooks on it.  That is mostly for holding the items that I use all the time.  

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Until one day I came across a photo of someone's working table, with a very nice framed pegboard mounted right in front of the desk, with all kinds of accessories hanging off the pegboard.  

So, I had decided to make my own (with my dad's assistance of course as he claimed it takes him no time to make one) and show you how to make one for yourself. It really isn't that difficult.


Things you need...

Quantity

Name

Description

1

31 x 23 inch Pegboard (See note 1)

3/16th thick pegboard. ¼ inch holes space 1 inch apart

2

Back Frame Top and Bottom

1 x 2 inch common pine length=28.5 inches

2

Back Frame Sides

1 x 2 inch common pine length=23.5 inches

2

Front Frame Top and Bottom

9/16 x 1-1/8 pine wm292 ply cap length=31.5 mitered

2

Front Frame Sides

9/16 x 1-1/8 pine wm292 ply cap length=23.5 mitered

4

Large D ring hangers

2

#6-32 x 1-3/4”

Hollow wall anchor (drywall install)

2

#8 1 -1/2 Pan head metal screw

Phillips head, (wood wall or stud)

1

White Semi gloss paint

1

Wood Glue

Good Quality


Pegboard

The pegboard was from Home Depot. It has one white side and the drilled holes are clean on the white side. The Lowe’s brown pegboard would have to be painted white.

  • Cut the panel 31 wide by 23 inches high. Position the cuts so there is ½ inch from the cut edge to the center of the nearest hole. This will allow clearance for the outside row and column of holes to miss the rear frame.


Rear Frame

1. Option 1: Use 1 x 2 inch wood commonly known as a firing strip to build the rear frame.

I cut the width to 28.5 inches and the height to 23.5 inches.

a. Set up the router table to round the edges of the frame pieces using a 3/16 inch round over bit. If you use the dowel method think about and mark how you are going to assemble the sides. Round the appropriate ends also. Or wait until the frame is glued and then round the outside edges again.

b. Set up the router to round the bottom edge of the ply cap molding front frame material.

c. I assembled the frame to be 31.5 inches wide and 23.5 inches high as shown in the pictures below. I use a dowel assembly method to give a tight straight corner and a smooth vertical side to the frame.

d. Using a doweling jigl drill 2 holes in the edges of the side pieces to match up with 2 holes in the ends of the top and bottom piece

e. Using the dowels glue the frame pieces together

2. Option 2: Cut the boards to the outside frame dimensions of 31.5 x 23.5 inches and miter the corners.

  • Sand the pieces and round the back edges.
  • Assemble with glue. If you don’t have long clamps you can clamp the boards to the pegboard to assure tight joints and a straight frame.

3. Note that the rear frame should overlap the pegboard by ¼ inch on each side.

4. Glue the pegboard to the rear frame leaving the ¼ inch border around the frame. Use a good quality wood glue.


Front Frame

1. Miter cut the frame sides to 23.75 and 31.75 inches using the Ply Cap. They should fit over the front of the pegboard and overlap the edge to cover the pegboard edge.

2. Glue the frame to the pegboard and nail the frame to the pegboard and the rear frame using a nail gun and 1 inch nails.

3. Counter sink any nail heads sticking up and caulk the front frame and sides with wood patch.

4. Sand the frames.

5. Paint the front and back with a semi gloss latex paint using a trim roller. Paint the back first and let the paint dry. (Tip: wrap the roller in plastic wrap between coats to keep it from drying out).


Hangers

1. Mark the position of the hangers on both sides of the back of the frame. The top of the D-ring should be 3 inches from the top of the frame. These will be used to hang the board in the landscape orientation

2. Mark the position of the hangars on the top and bottom of the frame 3 inches from the left side. These will be used to hang the board in the portrait orientation.

Finished

Once you have determined the orientation you will hang your pegboard you may remove the D-rings that will not be used to allow the pegboard to sit squarely on the wall without rocking.


FREE How-to-build eBook

So you have copied the above info for making your own pegboard?  How about just click the button below to download the eBook version of the above instructions, which includes all the above steps PLUS the hanging instructions for putting that onto drywall securely.

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